Wednesday June 3, Mabuya, Lilongwe (morning)

The more I see and the more I read, it seems that everyone has an opinion and a laundry list of solutions to Africa's many problems. Everyone thinks they know what they are and how to fix them. No one, or few, however, have the pomposity to think they have any authority on the matter(s). Everyone parries, "but oh, what do I know, it must be much more complex than that." But what if it isn't? What if Africa has the very plain problems of extreme corruption, not enough (or no) education, and the problems associated with addressing these problems: too much aid. The troubles here appear plain. You cannot avoid them. Everyone always covers their ass at this point in the conversation and shifts to the spirit, the beauty, and the tenacity of the people, but so much of Africa is its problems. Its beautiful people needn't stand for them.

(afternoon)

Idah got her US visa this morning! She will be joining Katie and I on a very long journey to totally new experiences. As mind blowing as this trip has been for me, my first trip to Africa, it cannot compare at all to the culture shock this young girl is about to experience. She has had numerous firsts this week and hasn't even left Malawi.

This afternoon I walked to the market by myself (there's a big boy!). It is certainly a different world than I am used to, but no longer uncomfortable now that I've adjusted. I can walk around relatively hassle free, or at least only slightly more hassled than any local. The ones that put the most effort into seeming like your friend are the worst. They are unshakable. You have to cross a main street, and not even that is surefire. They'll be your uninvited friend for five minutes for 500 Kwatcha at the end. "No no. Zikomo." I can greet people in the local language, Chichewa now. "Muni bwanji" (Hello. How are you?) "Ndili bwino. Kaya inu?" (I'm fine. And you?) "Zikomo" (Thank you.) This magic has amazing effects. Stone faced people passing by literally explode into smiles at the mere mumbling of a hello. There is laughter here.

PICASA PHOTOS because Flickr is filled up.